In the beginning...

My international travel, and my international family and friends, although extensive now, began in a way that I had never imagined.

I remember the day, Saturday, May 5, 2012, about 2:00 AM. I was lying in bed, aimlessly flipping through the TV channels. As it happened, I came upon a travel show hosted by Rick Steves (a travel professional known for his television programs and books specializing in European travel). I had heard vaguely about the Camino de Santiago, and had intended to look into it further, but had not done anything to date. The show was about Spain and had a brief segment on the Camino de Santiago. It showed the pilgrims walking, and had a short piece with typical pilgrim lodging in an abandoned church in Roncesvalles, Spain. Something about waking up to a rising sun streaming through stained glass windows, washing colors over the 90 or so pilgrims communally sleeping where the alter and pews once were struck me.

I should mention that, at several points, Rick Steves was careful to point out that "This isn't for everyone".

As an aside, Camino de Santiago has numerous routes. The French Way of the Camino de Santiago Starts in St Jean Pied de Port, France and ends in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. The French Way is, by far, the most popular. It is an 800 km (500 mi) trek. Depending on the walking speed, it takes around 29-31 days to complete.

At the time, my domestic travel criteria was 1) It had to be cheap, 2) It had to get me into forced contact with real people, living real lives and 3) It had to involve fresh air and nature. When the travel show spoke of $7 - $10 for a bed in the communal albergue and $10 or so for a “Menu del Dia” meal, I became more curious.

The Camino de Santiago has a long and colorful history. The pilgrimage started somewhere around the year 800. The attraction was to journey from the pilgrim's home to the Cathedral of Santiago, reportedly the final resting place of St. James, one of the twelve apostles. In the year 800, Spain was controlled by the Moors (a conquest which began in 711 and ended in 1492). In reality, the Roman Catholic popes desired an excuse to reenter the Iberian Peninsula and retake Spain under the pretext of protecting the welfare of the pilgrims. To sweeten the pot, the Catholic church offered “Plenary Indulgences” to those completing the journey. A "Ticket to Heaven" in simple terms. The pilgrimage became popular with villages and services springing up to accommodate the travelers. Albergues (hostels) began to open so that the pilgrims may sleep under a roof. The albergue at O'Cebriro has been in continuous operation since the year 836. It definitely sounded interesting.

After waking Saturday morning I looked up some air fares. The French way starts in St Jean Pied de Port, France. The first day's trek takes the pilgrim over the Pyrenees and into Spain. I planned a journey from Tampa (where I was living at the time) to St Jean.

First I was thinking in the autumn 2012. Time to prepare and all that. But the air fares were kind of expensive. Then maybe summer 2012. Again airfares were expensive and I knew it would be hot and crowded. Hmmm... I still wanted to go. So how about tomorrow? Viola, a big discount if I went tomorrow, but I couldn't get it all together in a day. When does this sale end? Turns out the prices were cheap until May 13th. On total impulse, I booked the flight.

What the hell have I done? A sense of panic came over me. But I was committed. Fortunately there are several websites and discussions pertaining to the Camino including suggested packing lists, etc. so I got busy acquiring the necessary equipment and supplies. I really didn't have much but I did have decent boots and a few other items.

I told my daughter what I was doing so she would know where to start looking if I disappeared. Her first reaction was to ask if I was bringing a gun. Why would I bring a gun? Wild animals, robbers was the reply. Rick Steves didn't mention wild animals or robbers so I thought I was safe.

I departed Tampa on the 13th (Tampa-Madrid-Toulouse by air and Toulouse-Bayonne-St Jean by train). May 15th, early morning, looking at the Pyrenees and thinking of the famous quote of Lao Tse “The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step” I stepped into my future.